ilchianti

Wiltshire, Buckinghamshire, Lancashire, Herefordshire and Yorkshire of course but there’s also Chiantishire. It’s that little bit of Tuscany which is forever the home-counties of England.  It’s an area where the well-healed Englishman and his lady buy summer homes or take their holidays following in the slippery footsteps of the likes of Tony Blair.

Once upon a hot summer’s day I was driving with a friend from Pisa to San Gimignano, a small town famous for its many medieval sky-scraper towers.  Lunchtime was upon us and we were in desperate need of finding somewhere to buy a panino, or even that great stand-by while travelling, a McDonalds.  We drove round a hair-pin bend and as the road straightened saw a sign indicating an Agriturismo; typically an agricultural establishment offering food and accommodation.

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High-rise San Gimignano
In this case the sign encouraginglyinformed us that there was indeed a restaurant called Il Cucule.  It was well after 1pm though which is the standard lunchtime in these parts so we were certain we’d arrive to find the kitchen already closed – as in many a British pub.

As luck would have it, not only was it still open but there was one table left free.  Fitting the car into a parking space was more challenging.

The owner was keen that we should try his recommendations – no menu.  At this stage the pangs of hunger told us either to just go with the flow  or go hungry.  We followed his lead and were served with one of the simplest, most flavoursome meals ever.  It was delicious home-cooking using ingredients of their own production and we enjoyed antipasti of meats and cheeses and a perfect Ribollita (a Tuscan soup made from day old bread and vegetables) drizzled with home-produced olive oil.  We drank local wine from their own grapes and paid next to nothing for the privilege.  In the value for money stakes this place is 5 star and beyond and for me demonstrates the very best of Italian cooking and hospitality.

Their website says the restaurant is open to guests staying in their apartments and only by appointment to outside visitors.  So call ahead if you’re going to be in the area.  You won’t be disappointed by the food or the views.

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Ribollita