My Kind of Food

Kippers (smoked herrings) are becoming more popular again these days.  I’ve loved them since I was a child when we used to have them ‘boil in a bag’.  They would come in a vacuum sealed packet with a pat of butter inside and then simply be warmed through by placing them unopened in a pan of boiling water for a short while.  Gastrophiles call this sous-vide cooking these days!

There’s not much doubt that the ‘kippering’ of herrings was born on the Northumberland coast, either in the fishing village of Seahouses or Craster, not withstanding the fact that similar products can be found across the North Sea in the Scandinavian countries and also in Eastern Europe.  Craster Kippers though are special and have been described as the best available – and not just by me!  The family firm L Robson & Sons, in Craster, makes Kippers from North Sea Herrings (‘silver darlings’ as they are affectionately known), as they have done for over 130 years.  The fish, only the plumpest, are split, soaked in brine for a while and then smoked for 16 hours over smouldering oak and whitewood.

When I was in Newcastle, UK, recently I went for breakfast to a quirky little cafe in the shadow of the Tyne Bridge, called Quay Ingredient (lovely pun!).  It had been recommended to me as serving the best breakfasts in Newcastle, so I thought I had to give it a go.

It’s a tiny place and was quite busy but I managed to get a table.  The breakfast menu offered a range of different options, from Full English, through various egg based dishes and pancakes, to cereal and toast.  My eyes were immediately caught by ‘Grilled Craster Kipper with Lemon Parsley’ so I ordered it with a cup of black coffee, which was much needed after a heavy and late night!

The kippers have to be the best I have ever eaten.  They were plump and juicy and drowning in lemon and parsley butter and served with generously buttered slices of toast.  The taste was an exquisite mix of smoke, salt, pepper and lemon! The lemon juice was sharp but not bitter and  cut-through the gorgeous salty butter perfectly.   This made me realise just how special Craster Kippers are and also made me appreciate how they can be jazzed up with nothing more than a few simple accompaniments.  Perfect, or ottimo! as we might say here in Italy!