Rioja in the north of Spain is one of only two Spanish wine producing areas with the highest quality classification, (DOCa). Originally the producers were either French, who imported the Bordeaux style of wine making or locals who also aped that method.
The Marqués del Riscal opened his operation in 1858 and in common with others their style of wine has changed from that French pastiche to what we have today, which is a more modern classical style all of its own. From the 1970s, when standards were generally low and production high, Rioja has been in search of its true identity and the beginning of the 21st century saw the start of great improvements.
We drank a bottle of Herederos del Marques de Riscal, Rioja Reserva, 2016, the other day to accompany a very particular piece of red meat. Made from 100% Tempranillo grapes, at 14% a.b.v. it packs a punch. In colour it is very dark (think black cherries) and smelling it is like putting your nose into an oak barrel half-filled with cherries, black pepper, ripe plums and a hint of cinnamon.
On the palate, the tannins seemed well rounded and the finish is long, leaving a sensation of velvet-silk in the mouth. It was the perfect accompaniment to the steak.
This wine is readily available on the shelves of English supermarkets but as rare as hens’ teeth in this part of Italy. We picked up our bottle in a department store in Lugano, Switzerland for about 19 Swiss Francs. The internet tells me the average price is around €14.00 so at least that is the same ballpark.
My Kind of Food 