My Kind of Food

I’ve written elsewhere on this blog that Le Caprice restaurant in London is on my list of top favourites and I was really pleased to be able to visit for the first time in 2 years the other Sunday for lunch (or brunch as they call it).  I was passing through London on my way to Cambridge and then the North East of England.

I’ve eaten at Le Caprice many times, too many times perhaps in relation to my income and I hope to do so many times again.  It is one of the very few places where repeat visits do not disappoint.

The original Le Caprice was opened in the West End of London in 1947 by Mario Gallati, who had opened The Ivy some 30 years previously.  The Ivy, in ‘Theatre Land’ is the haunt of actors playing in the West End theatres and their celebrity friends.  It’s sister restaurant Le Caprice is also described by some a celebrity restaurant, and its not uncommon to recognise a face or two from stage or screen; it is however much more than that.  It’s a ‘home from home’, generally devoid of tourists and where regular customers are remembered and welcomed as old friends.

The current incarnation of the restaurant began in 1981 when it was bought by restaurateurs Chris Corbin and Jeremy King who relaunched it and it was following that that its fame spread.  It is now owned by Caprice Holdings Ltd who have a portfolio of great London restaurants, including The Ivy, 34, and Scott’s.

Tucked away at the end of a cul-de-sac behind the famous Ritz Hotel, it attracts little or no passing trade.  It survives, thrives, on its reputation for high quality, simple food expertly prepared and served in its clean-lined, black and white-themed dining room, reminiscent of something in downtown New York.

The Director is the equally famous, Jesus Adorno, who began his career as a waiter. Jesus has immense charm and when he’s on duty greats every familiar face with sincerity, seemingly as pleased to see an EFL Teacher as a famous actor or an Earl.

Nothing much changes at Le Caprice, yet everything seems fresh.  Sure there are occasional minor changes to the decor yet the strong black and white theme with chrome highlights remains, as do the David Bailey black and white photographs which adorn the walls.  The menu changes with the seasons, but imperceptibly so.  Even after a gap of two years or more the menu to me was discernibly the same and yet updated.  There are no radical changes which seemingly respond only to the current foodie fashions, whatever they may be.

Le Caprice makes the best Bloody Mary in the world, in my view. I usually precede a meal there with one, especially if it is Sunday Brunch.  Imagine how disappointed I was, when, a few years ago, they made some small changes to how it was prepared and served.  Recognising my disapproval at the time, they have, on almost every visit since, remembered my ‘special needs’ and prepared the cocktail accordingly.  Now that’s personalised service!

And so to the food.  Having been given one of the two best tables (the benefit of being ‘known’) it was a joy to browse the Brunch Menu which ranges from dishes at the breakfast end of things, such as eggs, bacon, smoked salmon etc to a Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Puddings.

I chose Mackerel and Green Apple Salad for a starter, which was served with horseradish mousse and lovely peppery nasturtium leaves.  It was presented in an ‘ok’ sort of way – nothing flash to look at and without the over the top, technical flourishes of some places but what an amazing taste!  This is the essence of Le Caprice.  Taste is king.  The crispy skin on the fish gave way to moist, succulent flesh with a flavour that was so incredibly fresh.  There was an appropriate amount of background heat and creaminess  from the horseradish, cleanly cut-through by the sharpness of the green apple slices.  How I wish I could cook like that!

Next up was Slow Roast Suckling Pig which was accompanied by winter vegetable hash and more apples, this time caramelised.  I hesitated about ordering a second dish with apples but I adore suckling pig so much that I couldn’t resist. The vegetable hash was a bit like bubble and squeak and packed with earthy flavours, the apples firm and sweet and the pork spectacularly juicy.  Maybe I was a bit sad that the skin wasn’t as crispy as it could’ve been but it didn’t stop me being tempted to lick the plate clean.

I love chocolates but I rarely order chocolate puddings.  On this occasion through I was tempted enough to order Four Chocolate Fondant with Toffee Popcorn.  If I’m honest I don’t think I’ve eaten a Chocolate Fondant before so fed up am I of seeing them on TV cooking competitions.  This was a revelation.

Rich, warm, soft (with a suitably crunchy top) and yet not overly heavy (truly). Yum! Yum! Yum!

My only thought now is of when I can return to this most special of places.